Abanotubani: Tbilisi's sulphur bath neighbourhood
Abanotubani — literally "bath district" — is the oldest heart of Tbilisi and, according to legend, the reason the city exists. King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered hot thermal springs here in the 5th century while hunting, and decided to found his new capital on this spot.
History and origin of Abanotubani
The sulphur baths have been in operation since the 5th century, though the current buildings — with their characteristic reddish brick domes — date mainly from the 17th and 18th centuries. For centuries they were Tbilisi's social centre: business was done here, marriages were arranged and disputes were settled.
Alexandre Dumas visited the baths in 1858 and described them as "the most pleasurable experience of my entire journey". Pushkin also frequented them during his stay in Tbilisi.
The sulphur baths today: culture and tradition
The waters flow naturally at 37–38 °C, high in sulphur and minerals. They are attributed with beneficial properties for the skin, joints and stress. Today there are public baths (cheap, shared) and private baths (individual cabins with a private tub).
The best known are Chreli-Abano (the most ornate, with a Persian facade) and Gulo's Thermal Baths. A private cabin costs around 10–20 GEL per hour (€3–6).
The unique dome architecture
The most striking feature of Abanotubani as seen from Narikala Fortress is the hemispherical domes protruding from the ground: the baths are excavated underground to harness natural heat. The architecture blends Persian, Arab and Georgian influences in carved brick facades.
How to enjoy Abanotubani: practical guide
The neighbourhood is also a pleasure to stroll through: Gorgasali Street runs alongside the Mtkvari River with views of the artificial waterfall and the old town. There are restaurants, art galleries and ceramics shops.
- Best time: early morning or evening to avoid groups
- Recommended duration: 1–2 hours bathing plus a walk around the neighbourhood
- How to get there: on foot from Freedom Square (15 min) or by metro to Avlabari
- Combine with: a visit to Narikala Fortress right above the neighbourhood
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to enter the sulphur baths in Tbilisi?
Shared public baths cost from 2–3 GEL (under €1). Private cabins with a personal tub cost around 10–20 GEL per hour (€3–6). The kisi service (exfoliation with a special mitt) costs an additional 15–25 GEL.
Do I need to bring a swimsuit to the Tbilisi baths?
In public baths, towels and sometimes swimwear are provided. In private cabins you can bathe without clothes. It is advisable to bring flip-flops and your own towel.
When did Pushkin visit the Tbilisi baths?
Alexander Pushkin visited the Abanotubani baths in 1829 during his journey to the Caucasus and described them enthusiastically in his account "A Journey to Arzrum". He considered them superior to any European baths he had visited.