Gremi: the ruins of the medieval capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti

In 1616, Shah Abbas I of Persia reduced to ashes one of the most prosperous cities in the eastern Caucasus: Gremi, capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti since the 15th century. Thirty thousand people lived in this city at its height; today only the citadel ruins, a church and the silence of the surrounding vineyards remain.

Gremi Georgia Kakheti — ruinas ciudadela siglo XVI Iglesia de los Arcángeles
The ruins of Gremi with the Church of the Archangels, amid the vineyards of Kakheti

History of Gremi: rise and destruction

Gremi was the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti from the late 15th century, strategically positioned on the trade routes between Europe and Asia. The city flourished through commerce in wine, silk and spices. At the height of its splendour it housed palaces, bazaars, bathhouses and a citadel overlooking the Alazani floodplain.

The destruction of 1616 by Shah Abbas I of the Safavid dynasty was total and deliberate: he massacred the population, burned the buildings and deported tens of thousands of Georgians to Persia. The city never recovered.

What to see at Gremi today

Of the medieval splendour, only the citadel and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, built in the second half of the 16th century, survive. This church is exceptionally beautiful:

  • Ornate facade with relief carvings of crosses and geometric motifs
  • 16th-century frescoes inside, partially preserved
  • Three-storey bell tower with views over the Alazani vineyards

Next to the church there is a small museum with archaeological finds from excavations of the site.

viñedos de Kakheti Georgia — región del vino georgiano paisaje otoño
The vineyards of Kakheti surround the ruins of Gremi, recalling the role of wine in the medieval kingdom

How to visit Gremi: Kakheti wine route

Gremi is 15 km from Telavi, the modern capital of Kakheti. It makes a perfect stop on the Kakheti wine route, combined with Alaverdi Monastery (5 km) and the region's wineries. By taxi from Telavi: around 15–20 GEL. Museum entry: ~3 GEL.

Frequently asked questions

What destroyed the city of Gremi?

Shah Abbas I of Persia (Safavid) completely destroyed Gremi in 1616 during one of his reprisal campaigns against the Kingdom of Kakheti, which had been seeking support from Russia. The destruction was deliberate and total; the city was never rebuilt.

Can you see the frescoes in the Church of the Archangels?

Yes, the church interior is accessible and retains fragments of 16th-century frescoes with religious scenes. The light inside is dim; bring a small torch to appreciate them better.

Can Gremi be combined with other visits in Kakheti?

It is the ideal combination with Alaverdi Monastery (5 km south) and the region's wineries. From Telavi you can also reach Sighnaghi (40 km), Georgia's most romantic village, on the same day.